Disclaimer: The following reviews represent my opinions
regarding the listed books . No guarantee or warranty is implied regarding
the suitability of the books for your specific purposes. In other words,
don't complain to me if you happen to disagree with me.
Not Recommended
Relatively few books will be presented in this category, because I
don't tend to pay a lot of attention to books I don't like, and because
most of the books reviewed will come from the personal collections of
myself and my friends, and we don't tend to buy a lot of books we don't
like. Placement in the "Not Recommended" category does not mean the book
is bad, but rather that I don't think it would be advisable for you to buy
the book without an opportunity to look through it yourself first.
Recommended with comment
This means I think the book is good and I would recommend it to
friends, but that I also think there's something you need to know about
the book that may not be immediately obvious. An example is Flat
Pattern Methods, which I think is an excellent book, and I just want
to make sure you know it only covers womenswear. Make sure to read my
reviews of books in this category thoroughly before purchase.
Recommended
Books in the "recommended" category are those I consider to be
excellent books on their stated subject matter. My reviews are intended to
help you decide if you're interested in the subject matter and if the
book's style of presentation meets your needs.
Adequate
Books in this category are those which I consider to be of acceptable
quality in their presentation of their stated subject matter, but are not
my preferred choice among those books I have reviewed.
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Recommended
I wrote this book, so I'm awfully biased about it. Sufficient to say,
I tried to answer all the most important questions I believe you should
have about buying a sewing machine, including how a sewing machine works,
what all the common parts are for, and what options and accessories you
might want to be interested in.
I'll try to link to a review of the book after some people have got a hold of
it to review it. I just received my copy, and I'm thrilled!
The Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing
Recommended
Review copy source: Seen in bookstore
This is a highly informative guide to sewing, covering most (if not all)
important aspects of modern home sewing. Everything is clearly diagrammed
and explained. Most every technique of day-to-day importance is shown.
While I slightly preferred "Singer's Complete Photo Guide To Sewing", that's only
because I preferred photos to diagrams. This is an excellent book in its
own right. I recommend that beginners who want their hand held a bit more
should consider the Singer book, while beginners who want more thorough
reference with their introduction should consider the Reader's Digest
book.
Singer presents a strong basic introduction to many common aspects of
modern machine sewing. The book guides the reader through the learning
process, discussing tools, fabrics, measuring, how to read a pattern
envelope, common seams, seam finishes, and some details on fitting. It
also has some information on sewing for the home, including how to make
curtains and some information about notions and hardware useful for making
and installing them.
Clear photos document practically everything in the book, helping it to
informatively present lots of information with minimal descriptive
text.
My major complaint about the book is that it doesn't seem to mention men
anywhere - boys, but not men. (One wonders what the boys are supposed to
wear when they grow up.) This is unfortunately common in sewing books
these days. However, much of the information presented is gender
nonspecific even though it is shown only on womenswear.
I recommend this book as an excellent guide for beginners who want to
learn how to sew. Experienced sewingers like myself should take a look at
it in person and consider purchasing it as well - in examining the book
for review, I learned a few things.
The Vogue/Butterick Step-By-Step Guide to Sewing Techniques
Adequate
This book is well written and thoroughly diagrammed. It covers a broad
range of subjects and is relatively inclusive. Its alphabetical
organization makes it ideal for looking up terms from pattern
instructions.
Unfortunately, its alphabetical organization also means that topics are
presented in order of their name, not in the order a beginner may wish to
learn them in. Confronted with this book, I believe a beginner's reaction
would be "where do I start?" I found no part of the book which says
anything like "Ok, here's where to start, read these topics, then
those..." either.
Readers may wish to consider purchasing the book for reference use. Do
not, however, think that it will guide you through the learning process
for sewing.
Sewing Bestsellers
Sewing Books
The Art of Manipulating Fabric
by Colette Wolff Recommended
This book is in my personal collection.
This is by far the most comprehensive book I've ever seen on textural
effects that can be made with fabric. There are very thorough chapters
about fundamental methods of working with fabric, such as tucks and
gathering and shirring and stuffing. Everything is carefully photographed,
diagrammed, or described as necessary to make each process easily
understandable. (Note, however, that the book concerns itself with
producing effects rather than with equipment - don't expect long involved
descriptions of how to use your sewing machine.) An endless parade of
examples demonstrates for you exactly how any given effect will look. This
book is not only inspired, it's inspirational - every time I look at it I
want to try the things it shows. I highly recommend this book for anyone
interested in sewing for textural effect.
Color for Men
by Carole Jackson, Kalia Lulow Recommended
Review copy source: Tom's personal collection
It's refreshing to find an entire book about menswear. It's even more
refreshing to find one that's actually good. I bumbled onto my copy
of this in a used bookstore and wow, am I ever glad. This is the mens
version of the bestselling book, "Color Me Beautiful," which showed
millions of women how to color coordinate their wardrobes. (My aunt swears
by their method for choosing her makeup.) This isn't a sewing book as
such, but rather is a fundamental reference on how men should dress. Its
principles can be strongly applied to sewing in regard to choosing fabrics
and patterns that are appropriate for the wearer. (I do, however, disagree
with its advice that men shouldn't wear print fabrics.)
Basically, the book begins by explaning how to place the subject into one
of four color categories, named after the seasons. Then color charts are
presented for each category, showing good colors for the subject to wear
which can also be mixed and matched. Then the book talks in detail about
how to create a basic wardrobe, and discusses in detail the elements of
the basic mens business wardrobe - how to choose them, how to combine
them, how to wear them. It even gives plausible advice about hairstyle.
The tone is rather self-congratulatory and there are several
heterocentrist remarks, which are unfortunate, but in the end I think the
content more than makes up for it.
The Complete Book of Machine Embroidery
by Robbie Fanning, Tony Fanning Not Recommended
This is one of those unfortunate cases in which I'm really interested in
the subject and I had high hopes for the book and a quick skim made it
look like the book would strongly meet my needs, but when I actually sat
down and read it I was very disappointed.
It's not that this is a bad book: it isn't. It's clear and descriptive.
The thing is, the machine embroidery I was interested in doing involves
filling area with color. The machine embroidery the book is interested in
could be better described as "decorative topstitching." Although it does
specify how to fill area with color, this is only a brief mention in a
very large book. The cover photo, which depicts a beautifully
embroidered peacock in shades of white, seems nonrepresentative of the
content.
I recommend that anyone considering purchasing this book should examine it
in person before purchase to ensure that it's really what they want.
Couture Sewing Techniques
by Claire B. Shaeffer Recommended with comment
Claire Shaeffer's enthusiasm for couture shines through in this
fascinating book about couture sewing techniques. It begins with a brief
history of couture, and proceeds with a detailed examination of what makes
couture garments so special and unique. It's filled with photos of example
garments to illustrate the use of specific techniques. I found the book to
be highly organized and easy to understand. I think it's one of the most
interesting sewing books I own and I periodically skim through it for
inspiration. While the garments presented are all womenswear, the
sewing techniques shown are general.
However, the interested reader should note that couture sewing is done
almost entirely by hand, so the actual methods in the book concern
themselves mostly with hand sewing. This is an excellent book of technique
for someone interested in the highest quality hand sewing... readers who
prefer to stick to their sewing machines (like me) should consider it only
for curiosity value and for its historical content. (It's more than
interesting enough to justify its price to satisty my curiosity,
but it's up to you to decide if you're that interested in couture.)
Flat Pattern Methods
by Norma R. Hollen Out Of Print Recommended with comment
Review copy source: Tom's personal collection
If you sew for women and you can get your hands on a copy of this
marvelous book about alterations in womens' clothing patterns do so
immediately. With the methods in this book the reader can take a basic
dress sloper and turn it into essentially any womens' garment pattern
desired. One friend, for example, was particularly thrilled that the book
taught her to turn a sheath dress pattern into a princess-line and vice
versa. I was delighted because it's the only book I've ever seen that
explains properly how to design a cowl collar. I found the instructions to
be clear and easily understood and the diagrams plentiful. A must-have for
anyone interested in designing womenswear by flat pattern alteration.
High Fashion Sewing Secrets from the World's Best Designers
by Claire B. Shaeffer Recommended with comment
This book is in my personal collection.
Claire Shaeffer once again produces a very interesting book about
sewing, but unfortunately I feel that this one is overly geared toward
womenswear and isn't well organized.
Mostly, this is a book of techniqiues that can be applied to your
garments to enhance or improve them. The techniques are good, they make
for attractive garments, and the extensive photography of each process
makes them very easy to understand, but the vast majority of the
techniques are useless for menswear. Also, I felt that the techniques were
presented without enough order, which requires me to flip through the book
every time I want to find anything rather than being able to just know
where that technique will be. However, I really enjoyed the frequent
sidebars showing how actual fashion designers use the techniques
presented.
Near the end of the book is a minimal section on flat pattern alteration
which I didn't find usefully thorough.
Overall I felt this book to be both well written and interesting despite
its other problems and I would recommend it for those interested in sewing
womenswear with interesting construction features.
Life Is Not a Dress Size : Rita Farro's Guide to
Attitude, Style, and a New You
This book is a real gem for larger women interested in dressing well. In a
highly humorous tone, the author guides you through an understanding of
how to dress properly, carry yourself properly, and present yourself well.
She clearly explaisn the needs for both proper fit and self esteem, and
shows you that large does not equal bad.
As a man, this book doesn't particularly address me as its audience, but I
plan to buy a copy sooner or later anyway just becaause it was so
funny.
Make Your Own Japanese Clothes
by John Marshall Recommended
This book is in my personal collection.
This fascinating book thoroughly discusses the design, construction,
wearing, and laundering of traditional Japanese garments for both genders.
I found the instructions to be clear and easily understood and the
diagrams to be plentiful, and I thought the commentary was extremely
interesting.
First the book shows how to take a lot of measurements of yourself, which
will be used later in designing your customized pattern. It then discusses
basic construction techniques which will be used for the garments. Then
for each garment presented it provides a discussion of who wears the
garment, when, and why. It then provides diagrams of mens' and womens'
versions of the pattern, which allow you to draft a pattern to your own
measurements. Specific instructions for the garment are then presented,
referring to the prior chapters on garment construction. Lastly, drawings
of alternative designs for the garment (containing alterations) are shown
to help inspire the reader. At the end of the book are chapters on
laundering and storage.
I felt that the book would have been improved by presentation of
additional western construction techniques as possible alternatives to
traditional Japanese techniques (which tend toward lots of hand sewing)
and information about calculating yardage. However, I found the designs
easy enough to adapt to use with my sewing machine and the yardage to be
easy enough to calculate when I made myself a traditional Japanese jacket
to wear to a friend's wedding, which came out well. I really enjoyed this
book and recommend it to anyone interested in Japanese clothes.
Secrets for Successful Sewing
by Barbara Weiland
This book is in my personal collection. Recommended
If I were stuck on an island with only two sewing books of my choice, this
would be the second (after Sewing Secrets from the Fashion
Industry). However, if you're new at sewing, I recommed that it be a
first for you. This marvelous book covers topics about modern sewing that
I haven't seen anywhere else, and explains and shows things that I've been
trying to figure out for some time. For example, I buy needles of types
appropriate to my projects - quilting needles for quilts, metallica
needles for metallic threads, etc - but I've never known exactly what the
differences were between the different types of needles, physically. The
book has a chart which shows greatly enlarged drawings of the tips of the
different kinds of needles and explains clearly that (again, for example)
quilting needles have more tapered points to go more easily through
multiple layers, while metallica needles have a larger groove for the
thread to enter as it is going into the hole.
The beginning of the book is packed with useful reference for both the
experienced and beginner sewer. It then moves on to techniques for
improving or embellishing your clothing projects. Everything is shown in
highly detailed drawings and explained clearly in copious text.
For everyone who wants to know how to make curtains, this is the book.
It has lots of information devoted to curtains of all types. Modern methods are presented
to help you make curtains with the look you want with minimal time and
effort. (I've used some of the methods shown with great success in making
curtains for my friends.)
Follwing the section on curtains are sections on making a variety of
decorative and functional pillows, sewing for the table, and for the
bed.
As usual with the Singer Sewing books, everything is
lavishly illustrated in lots of photographs which clearly demonstrate
the techniques.
Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry
by Susan Huxley (Editor) et al Recommended
This book is in my personal collection
If I could have only one sewing book, this would be it. This is the book
that took my sewing from "I'm making things to cover myself" to "I'm
making high quality garments."
The book begins with an overview of tools and materials you'll need to sew
garments, including the sewing machine, fabrics, and patterns. It helps
you determine which pattern companies will probably make things that fit
you better and shows you how to grade down the seam allowances for a more
professional finish. Then comes a well organized library of sewing
techniques covering practically every part of an ordinary garment. It
shows not only how to do it, but in many cases how to do it better
than with the ordinary techniques used in pattern company instructions.
Finally, the book guides you through the construction of three common
garments (blouse/shirt, pants, and skirt) and shows which techniques from
the book can be applied where on each garment. After I'd read this book, I
found myself disregarding pattern instruction sheets because I had learned
from the book how to make things better.
Everything in the book is lavishly photographed for maximum clarity. This
was a must-have for me, and the use of photos of actual construction
enabled me to finally understand some techniques I'd read about in several
other books but not understood (like how to make welt pockets). The book
is very well organized, and after I had read through it once I found it
very easy to quickly find any bit of information in it.
The authors suffer slightly from the belief that industrial methods are
always superior, but their superior sewing experience shows through, and
while they talk about how things are done in a factory setting, everything
is presented using tools and techniques available to the home reader.
There are lots of interesting sidebars about how various people in the
clothing industry use the same (or similar) techniques. There is also the
usual "all sewing is for women" bias but if you're making menswear, just
substitute the word "shirt" every time they say "blouse" and you should be
fine - the vast majority of the information presented is gender
nonspecific.
I highly recommend this book for everyone interested in quality sewing.
I believe beginners will find it educational and readers who already have
lots of experience will find it a quality reference. If you're looking
for something a little more beginner oriented (but still full of useful
information for the more experienced sewer), try Secrets For Successful Sewing.
Shirtmaking (Book)
by David Page Coffin Recommended
This book is in my personal collection.
This seems to be the definitive work on making shirts. The
concentration is strongly on mens' shirts, although shirts for women are
both discussed and shown as well.
The book examines in detail the design and construction of a modern
American mens' shirt. Mr. Coffin has a stated goal in the book - to
produce custom fitted shirts with the same quality and construction
details as the finest purchased mens' shirts in America, and in this he
succeeds admirably. Unfortunately, I feel that in his pursuit of
perfection in copying the details of ready to wear shirts, he fails to
attempt to surpass them substantially. However, while I consider that a
major complaint, this is such an excellent book that I'm very glad I have
it anyway.
Mr. Coffin also presents his methods for shirt fitting (which basically
allow you to create your own custom pattern) which are comprehensive and
relatively easy. There is also a large section of pattern details which
you can trace off and use in your own garments. (I use collars, plackets,
and pockets from the book on my own shirts and am very pleased with
them.)
Text and illustrations are clear and easily understood in almost all
cases. (There's one technique I just don't understand, but one technique
is trivia in such an information-packed book, and it's not an important
technique anyway.) This is obviously the work of a master, and he's very
good at presenting the information for his audience. I think this book is
a must-have for anyone who is serious about making shirts.
Shirtmaking (VHS Video)
The companion video to the Shirtmaking book
features Mr. Coffin demonstrating the prominent techniques from his book.
In a patient and reassuring manner, he shows, with his own equipment
(which should reassure you with its remarkable ordinariness) and ordinary
shirting fabrics, how to do what he writes about in his book. While the
book may at times come off as being a bit stuffy and high minded, the
video clearly shows that he's relaxed about and comfortable with sewing.
He even demonstrates mistakes he might make and how to fix them if you
make them too. We also got a good laugh from his (practically antique)
iron, because it can be clearly heard in the background going "tink! tink!
tink!" throughout the video.
I think the video makes an excellent companion to the book, particularly
if you feel a little intimidated by the techniques shown. (I don't think
they're difficult, but then, I'm not a beginner any more either.) Oh, and
that one technique I couldn't figure out in the book? It makes absolute
sense now that I've seen the video and I may start using it myself.
Techniques for Casual Clothes, from Threads
Various authors Recommended with comment
This book is in my personal collection.
This is a collection of articles which were previously published in
Threads magazine. The articles are well written and interesting, but not
necessarily applicable to everyone's sewing.
I bought this book because I was interested in two specific articles. One
tells how to draft a pattern for mens' jeans and construct them after
you've cut the pieces. A friend and I did as the article suggested and
successfully produced a pair of jeans, and I was pleased with the
article's simplicity and accuracy. The other article that interested me
was one by David Page Coffin with some information that I considered to be
a good supplement to his Shirtmaking book (above).
Other articles which may be of particular interest are an article on
making stretch activewear for women and an article on drafting an
asymetrical closure for an upper body garment.
Readers who think the topics I've described are interesting or useful may
want to buy it. If none of these particular articles interest you, I
recommend you should examine the book in a bookstore to see if any of the
other articles interest you.
Wildflower Embroidery
by Annette Rich Not Recommended
I bought this little embroidery book so I could use its simple floral
patterns for free-machine-embroidery. For a machine sewer, that's about
the extent of what it's good for. The techniques discussed are all
intended for detailed, complicated (in my opinion) hand embroidery. The
preachy tone gushes on about how it's a special Brazilian embroidery
technique because it uses special thread made of... Rayon! (As if I can't
buy big spools of rayon embroidery thread at any local fabric store in
America.) And somehow it fails to explain how this is Brazilian given that
all of the patterns presented are of Australian wildflowers. The
embroidery is very pretty and most of the projects presented project quiet
elegance, if you happen to want to take the time to embroider them by
hand. Otherwise, the book strikes me as nothing special.
Quilting Bestsellers
Quilting Books
Block by Block : New Techniques for Machine Quilting and Assembly
by Beth Donaldson Recommended
Review copy source: Paulo's personal collection
This interesting book has methods for creating a quilt one block at a
time. First it presents a variety of attractive quilt blocks. You can use
them individually or combine them in a sampler quilt. Then comes the
interesting part - rather than assembling the blocks, laying pieced top
over batting over backing, basting, and quilting, you keep the blocks
separate, and quilt each block individually with batting and backing. This
allows you to work with much smaller pieces under the sewing
machine, allowing you to use much more interesting designs for quilting
lines. Once all the individual blocks are quilted, you assemble them into
a finished quilt.
While I recognize that there are tradeoffs inherent to this method (I
suspect it's a little more time consuming and it will make the backing
come out looking less attractive) I think it is nonetheless very
interesting and that some quilters will prefer it.
Color Magic for Quilters
by Ann Seely, Joyce Stewart Recommended
Review copy source: Paulo's and Bob's personal collections
This is a very useful book for quilters who have a difficult time choosing
fabrics that go well together. In clear and simple terms, the authors
calmly explain a variety of options for choosing colors that work well
together, based on a simple color well. For each method, a variety of
sample quilt blocks, in traditional patterns, are shown, made of ordinary
printed quilting fabrics, to demonstrate how things may look if you
choose colors based on the specific method. That fills the first half of
the book. The second half of the book is devoted to a variety of
attractive quilting projects.
The authors clearly love color and quilting, and try to share that love
with their readers. Between chapters are often presented little stories
from their lives in which they talk about memorable incidents from their
childhoods (they're sisters), most of which feature something they loved
and its color.
In all this is a friendly book which should be very helpful to the quilter
who needs help with color choices.
Once upon a Quilt : Fairy Tales in Fabric
by Bonnie Kaster, Virginia Athey
Recommended
Review copy source: Reviewed in store
This beautiful book has lavish photos of extraordinary art quilts based on
common fairy tales. This is a book I would consider buying as art even if
it weren't educational. The quilts are for the advanced quilter - don't
thik you should dive into your first quilt with one of these projects -
but I consider the book to be highly inspirational, and plan to buy it
myself as soon as possible.
Singer Quilting Bible
Singer Sewing Reference Library Recommended
This book is in my personal collection
This book covers everything from the basics of quilting through a variety of
quilted projects, from simple quilts, to wall hangings, sleeping bags, even
ideas for quilted garments.
As is usual for the Singer Sewing Reference Library books, this book is
richly photographed and clearly shows the construction processes.
The It's Okay If You Sit On My Quilt Book
by Mary Ellen Hopkins Recommended
This marvelous book is full of dozens and dozens and dozens of different
quilt blocks, all of which can be made entirely from squares,
rectangles, and right triangles. This makes the work of making some
attractive but complicated quilt blocks much easier. The author
writes with a fabulous attitude, and the book is so full of diagrams that
if it had no text at all it would still be thoroughly useful. I firmly
recommend this book to anyone interested in making traditional quilt
blocks but who doesn't want to suffer for art.
Threadplay
by Libby Lehman Recommended
Review copy source: Tom's personal collection
I would have wanted this book if it had nothing but pictures. Ms. Lehman's
quilts surpass the category of "craft" and reside in the realm of "art."
In her book she clearly presents her techniques with which she creates her
extraordinary quilts. They're unlike anything else I've seen, and every
one of them is fascinating.
The tone of the book is lighthearted and funny, and it's a pleasure to
read. The presentation of techniques is clear and easily understood. This
is the only quilting book I've bothered to acquire, and I recommend it to
the experienced quilter interested in making artistic quilts.
